1950s Style
Jeans In-Depth Comparison
Analyzing spec data for 20 models from 12 domestic brands
The 1950s was the golden age of American jeans. "1950s Style" models, which reinterpret the silhouettes, fabrics, and details of that era for modern times, are currently a category where both domestic and international brands are heavily investing. In this article, we thoroughly compare 1950s-inspired models from major domestic brands based on actual spec data. We cover points that enthusiasts care about, including fabric weight, front rise, and slub level.
Model List - Cheapest Retail Price First
Here is a list of the measured specifications for each brand. Please scroll horizontally to view all columns. The bar graph for fabric weight shows the relative range of 13oz to 17oz.
| Brand | Lot | Fit | Fabric Weight | Slub | Retail Price (incl. tax) | Official URL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sugar Cane | SC42955 | Slim Tapered | 14.25oz |
Medium | 23,100 yen | Official Site |
| orSlow | 105 | Regular Straight | 13.5oz |
Weak | 24,200 yen〜 | Official Site |
| TCB JEANS | TCB 50's | Regular Straight | 13.5oz |
Medium | 24,640 yen | Official Site |
| PHERROW'S | 421SW | Regular Straight | 13.75oz |
Medium | 25,300 yen | Official Site |
| DENIME | 220A XX | Regular Straight | 14.5oz |
Medium | 27,500 yen | Official Site |
| SAMURAI JEANS | S510XX | Regular Straight | 15.0oz |
Medium | 28,380 yen | Official Site |
| SAMURAI JEANS | S5000VX | Tight Straight | 17.0oz |
Strong | 28,380 yen | Official Site |
| JELADO | 313XX | Regular Straight | 14.0oz |
Strong | 29,700 yen | Official Site |
| JELADO | 312ZXX | Slim Tapered | 14.0oz |
Strong | 29,700 yen | Official Site |
| MOMOTARO | 1005SP | Mid Straight | 15.7oz |
Weak | 29,700 yen | Official Site |
| Studio D'Artisan | SD-101 | Regular Straight | 15.0oz |
Strong | 30,580 yen | Official Site |
| Studio D'Artisan | SD-103 | Tight Straight | 13.5oz |
Strong | 30,580 yen | Official Site |
| RESOLUTE | 711 | Wide Straight | 13.0oz |
Weak | 30,800 yen | Official Site |
| Full Count | 0105 | Wide Straight | 13.7oz |
Weak | 35,200 yen | Official Site |
| Full Count | 1101 | Regular Straight | 13.7oz |
Weak | 35,200 yen | Official Site |
| BONCOURA | XX | Regular Straight | 14.5oz |
Medium | 45,100 yen | Official Site |
Understanding Silhouettes - Fit Based on Measurements
The silhouette of 1950s style jeans can be determined by reading three measurements: front rise, thigh width, and hem width. Among these, the front rise is the most crucial, as it dictates the waist position and influences the overall balance.
Front Rise
27.5〜28.5cm
Low Rise
A lower waist position for a modern feel. Studio D'Artisan SD-103, SAMURAI S5000VX, RESOLUTE 711, JELADO 312ZXX
Front Rise
29.0〜29.5cm
Mid-Rise — Most Common
Most models fall into this category. Studio D'Artisan SD-101, JELADO 313XX, DENIME 220A, TCB 50's, PHERROW'S 421SW, SAMURAI S510XX, MOMOTARO 1005SP
Front Rise
30.0〜30.5cm
High-Rise
Most faithful to the original 1950s silhouette. A belt is essential. Full Count 0105/1101, orSlow 105, BONCOURA XX, Sugar Cane SC42955
The leg opening varies from 18.0cm (JELADO 312ZXX) to a maximum of 23.5cm (MOMOTARO 1005SP). A wider leg opening gives a stronger straight-leg impression, while a narrower one feels closer to tapered. Models with a small difference from the thigh width appear straighter, while those with a large difference have a more tapered feel.
In-Depth Analysis by Brand
We decipher the philosophy and intent behind each brand's specifications. Listed in order of price range.
Sugar Cane
SC42955 (1950s)
Uses blended American cotton. Features a slim tapered fit and a high front rise of 30.5cm, interpreting the original high-waisted 1950s silhouette with a modern, slim leg line. The most affordable model among those listed in this article.
Recommended for: Those who want to start with vintage denim on a budget, and those who prefer a slim silhouette.
orSlow
105 / 105 STANDARD FIT (1950s)
The 13.5oz fabric with a nep texture is a major distinction from other brands. It's a rare approach where the "weak" slub combined with unique neps creates a distinctive character. Both the 105 and 105 STANDARD FIT feature a high front rise of 30.0cm.
Recommended for: Those who want to enjoy a unique nep texture, and those prioritizing cost-performance.
TCB JEANS
TCB 50's (1950s)
Despite being a lighter 13.5oz, it offers a relaxed silhouette with a thigh width of 32.5cm. The commitment to pure vintage reproduction, free of unnecessary embellishments, is evident throughout.
Recommended for: Those seeking pure vintage reproduction, and those prioritizing cost-performance.
PHERROW'S
421SW (1950s Style)
A well-balanced, excellent model with 13.75oz, "medium" slub, and a textured surface. The front rise of 29.0cm is slightly lower within the mid-rise range.
Recommended for: Those who want to enjoy a well-balanced vintage feel, and those looking for their first pair.
DENIME
220A XX TYPE (1950s)
Despite a standard weight of 14.5oz, the textured surface creates a strong vintage feel. This silhouette is a classic regular straight.
Recommended for: Those who want to enjoy a vintage feel with good cost performance and balanced specs.
SAMURAI JEANS
S510XX / S5000VX (1950s Style)
Two models are available at the same price. The S510XX (15.0oz, regular straight) and the S5000VX (tight straight), which boasts the heaviest weight in this article at 17.0oz. The weight, silhouette, and slubiness are all contrasting, leading to entirely different wearing experiences depending on the choice.
Recommended for: (S5000VX) Heavy denim advanced users who want to enjoy the fabric's presence to the fullest.
JELADO
313XX / 312ZXX (1955 / 1950s Style)
The use of vintage cotton and "strong" slub are the biggest features. Two pairs, the 313XX (regular straight, rise 29.5cm) and 312ZXX (slim tapered, leg opening 18.0cm), are available at the same price. The 18.0cm leg opening is the narrowest in this article.
Recommended for: Those who value the texture of vintage cotton while also desiring a slim silhouette.
MOMOTARO JEANS
1005SP (1950s Style)
Despite its 15.7oz weight, it offers a unique combination of "weak" slub and "smooth" texture. The 23.5cm leg opening is the widest in this article, characterized by a strong straight-leg feel. This model is the answer for those who want smooth comfort even with heavy fabric.
Recommended for: Those who desire smooth comfort with heavier fabric, and those who prefer a strong straight silhouette.
Studio D'Artisan
SD-101 / SD-103 (1950s)
A lineup that thoroughly pursues fabric texture, featuring medium-staple cotton, "strong" slub, and a textured surface. Two models, the SD-101 (15.0oz, regular) and SD-103 (13.5oz, tight), are available at the same price, offering a wide range of silhouette choices.
Recommended for: Advanced users who want to thoroughly enjoy the unevenness and texture of denim, and enthusiasts who prioritize fabric individuality.
RESOLUTE
711 (1950s)
The lightest at 13.0oz, with "weak" slub and a "flat" texture in this article. Its minimalist design philosophy, prioritizing silhouette and ease of wear over vintage feel, clearly sets it apart from other brands. Despite being a wide silhouette, the front rise is low at 28.5cm, making it wearable with a modern sensibility.
Recommended for: Those who want to wear denim simply as part of their fashion.
Full Count
0105 / 1101 (1953 / 1950s Style)
Uses Zimbabwean long-staple cotton, with "weak" slub and a "smooth" texture. The design clearly prioritizes superior comfort over vintage feel, giving it a distinct character. Two models, the 0105 (wide straight, rise 30.5cm) and 1101 (regular straight, rise 30.0cm), are available at the same price. The thigh width of 33.0cm is the widest in this article.
Recommended for: Denim beginners or those prioritizing comfort, and those who dislike heavy denim.
BONCOURA
XX (1950s)
One of the models closest to the standard 1950s silhouette, with a regular straight fit, 30.5cm rise, and 32.0cm thigh width. It falls into the highest price range listed in this article. With uncompromising attention to fabric, stitching, and details, this is the "ultimate pair" that collectors eventually gravitate towards.
Recommended for: Collectors seeking a premium pair, and those who want the best jeans without compromise.
Fabric Weight × Slub Level Matrix
This chart plots models with slub level on the vertical axis and fabric weight on the horizontal axis. Use it as a reference to choose a model based on the "strength of vintage feel" and "fabric weight" you desire.
Light
Standard
Heavy
Quick Reference Guide to Recommended Models by Fit
Straight
Straight
Tapered
Straight
Summary — How to Choose Your Perfect Pair
Maximize the Vintage Feel
Studio D'Artisan, JELADO, SAMURAI JEANS
Superior Comfort & Smooth Fabric
Full Count, MOMOTARO
Prioritize Value for Money to Start
Sugar Cane, TCB JEANS, PHERROW'S
An Uncompromising Premium Pair
BONCOURA
Wear as a Fashion Statement
RESOLUTE, orSlow
Challenge Heavy Denim
SAMURAI JEANS S5000VX (17.0oz)
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